Classic alpinism

Who might be interested
Those who search intense moments in a vast space and spectacular environment … pure and thin air, untouched nature, constant, rhythmical movement and eyes which are lifted upwards…this can also be experienced by novices of the high mountains.

Follow the great alpine routes, which have made history. They lead through faces of rock, over ridges which rise impressively against the sky, onto flanks of ice and majestic pillars emerging out of glaciers …

Skills and training required
For easy routes such as the Gran Paradiso in the Valsavaranche or the Piramide Vincent at the Monte Rosa there are no particular skills required. They are indeed routes which offer a good introduction to alpinism for beginners. Routes like the Gran Paradiso from the Cogne side or the Castore from the east side in contrast, require already a minimal knowledge of the use of crampons and ice tools. Before approaching these routes therefore, it is highly recommended to plan some introduction routes in, to require basic skills in the "cramponage". The Gran Combin and/or the traverse of the Lyskamm are reserved for alpinists, who have already some of the before mentioned routes listed in their curriculum and who hold a good mastery in the usage of crampons and ice tool. Being well trained is mandatory.

We suggest some of  the easier  4000 m peaks of the alps, ideal to begin with this prestigious collection.You can choose between  the "Gran Paradiso" (4061 m), "Polluce" (4092 m), "Breithorn" (4165 m), "Castore" (4226 m) and "Capanna Margherita" (4559 m).
- Normal route of the Gran Paradiso from  the Vittorio Emanuele hut
- Normal route of the Gran Paradiso from the Chabod hut
- Breithorn from Cervinia
- Punta Giordani from Gressoney
- Piramide Vincent from Gressoney
- Normal route of the Castore from the Quintino Sella hut

Duration: The duration varies in dependency of the chosen summit.

Period: From June till October

Minimum level: Basic knowledge of the usage of ice tool and crampons.

Participants: group of 2/3/4/5 persons depending on the climb

According to the UIAA scale the difficulty affronted in classic alpinism lie between F and PD.  In general you need classic crampons and a single classic  ice tool  in case of ascends on ice. There are short passages of climbing (for example the Gran Paradiso from Cogne), they present difficulties in the 1°-3°range.

Technical equipment
Mountain boots, harness, eventual helmet, classic crampons, classic  ice tool, ski sticks.

UIAA Scale
F"Facile": Easy routes with no particular technical difficulties.  It is a matter of "hiking" with crampons on the feet and an iceaxe which is used just as support (for example Gran Paradiso from Valsavarenche);
PD"Poco Difficile": Routes, which present some mountaineering difficulties on rock and/or snow and slopes of snow or ice up to 35°-40°, the ice tool is used most of the time for support but also for swing(for example Castore east ridge, Lyskamm nose);
AD"Abbastanza difficile": Routes, with mountaineering difficulties on rock as well as on ice and slopes of snow or ice between 40° and 50° (for example Lyskamm traverse).
1° signifies that the hands are just used for balance where it is necessary;
2° signifies that the progression requires already a correct sequence of movements, there are lots of foot and hand holds;
3° signifies that the slopes steepen, exceptional up to nearly vertical, foot and hand holds start to diminish, but the passages can be generally mastered in different ways, without being anytime obligatory.

Contacts and informations

Montain Guides Society of
Gran Paradiso

Phone +39 0165 95304
Mobile +39 345 2106893